I have been unable to find any information or specific mounting brackets to fasten a Cisco 3825 2RU router to a wall, so I am wondering if anyone here has experience with this.
I have the regular rack mount brackets, but unlike other model routers, these do not allow you to rotate them for mounting on a wall.
I use purpose-built wall mount racks for mounting server and networking equipment flush to a wall.
Hang the router vertically and use the traditional rack ears and cage nuts.
I don't know if there are any commercial solutions to this problem, (I'm sure there are) we've just been solving this for many years with a little bit of "macguyvering".
We take a rack-mount shelf such as this one, and flush mount it to the wall/pressboard in the closet with anchors.
Then, we simply put the standard rack ears on our gear, and hang the equipment vertically from the ears of the shelf.
We use this in MANY closets as a cheaper/more space efficient alternative to putting a two-post rack or a wall hanging cabinet in there.
I've attached a couple of pictures for clarity:
Also, YES this is in a kitchen and under the hot-water heater... Not by our choice, but that's where the wiring was terminated when we took over the building. As most of you know, you play the hand you're dealt... :)
For a 2U device, normally I cut up a 4x4 and mount blocks (front and back for side air flow) or lengths (for front/rear airflow) to the wall (appropriate bolts/screws/anchors based on the wall).
I mount the device "horizontally" so that no cables are hanging down (to vibrate loose or to be unplugged as in one case when someone need a place to "hang something") and so dust and debris does not accumulate in upward facing ports.
I do use the ears and screw the device to the 4x4s. Depending on how much traffic in the area, I will mount plywood strips between the 4x4s across the device to secure it and/or a piece of plywood to protect it. Plywood can also help to conceal if visibility is a concern.
Keep air flow in mind, both with spacing and the direction of exhaust. Since it is wood, you should drill pilot holes to prevent splitting. If you are paranoid (or have a boss/client who is), you can use FRT (fire retardant treated) wood, but it isn't necessary.
Growing up with my father who worked with wood quite a bit, I sometimes go a bit crazy, using a sliding dovetail or hidden dovetail bracket on the wall to mount the 4x4. Always thought it might be fun to turn one into a wall mounted book shelf at some point.
